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Amman gets bullied a lot. “Boring” I hear regularly. And if you’re one of those people then frankly.. you’re f***ing boring! I love this city. So much so I lived here for two years.
There is an unconventional beauty in the panorama of beige buildings sprawled across the Jordanian hills. Every where you look you can see distant life. An old man frying fresh falafel, a roadside argument and the proud flags of its majority Palestinian population.
Amman is that person who doesn’t have social media. That’s how secretly cool she is. Because Amman understands its not the glitz and glamour that make a city, she understands its about the energy, soul and authenticity. Whilst everyone else tries really hard to be liked and cool, Amman does her own thing.
So no. You won’t find the craziest parties here. You won’t find the tallest buildings. But you will find a city on a human scale, you’ll find soulful encounters, people that will remember your face, a city that strips away all the faff and distractions of life and facilitates authenticity and connection. I met my best friends in this city, I fell in love in this city. That’s no accident. Amman made it happen.
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icon living: DARA DINING by SARA AQEL
Palestinian Jordanian Chef Sara Aqel is an icon, generational talent and one of my favourite friends on this planet. My admiration for her is endless. Beyond her multiple awards including Michelin, she has gone beyond her craft to represent something larger. She pioneered the first all-female kitchen in Dubai, changing the practises and culture for female chefs in restaurants across the region. Her loud and unapologetic stance on Palestine in official events and countries where it is very difficult to do so. She doesn’t care. If its important she’ll say it. She’s just 28.
During this trip she was one of the architects of the inaugural Jordanian Food Festival. Celebrating Jordanian heritage and food. Sara, Qais Malhas, Ali Ghazzawi and Karim Azar are the culinary Musketeers literally shaping Amman into a capital with an incredible food scene. What they’re doing is incredible, and reminder of how a few individuals can have a huge lasting impact.
Sara’s restaurant is an oasis in Amman. A converted villa with a beautiful garden serving Mediterranean food using Jordanian produce. Sara’s standards are tenacious and she is unforgiving. Driven to perfection in everything from the food you eat and the way her staff will make you feel throughout the night. Its a must visit. Order her signature fish wrapped in warak enab. If you’re lucky to meet her, tell her I love her.
not a secret: HASHEM
Its never been a secret. Everyone knows this still is one of the best spots in the world for fresh falafel, hummus and foul. This Jordanian breakfast is the first and last place I visit. Full of life, locals and foreigners. Families and lovers. Its loud, chaotic and everything that is great about food. Down the road is a legendary Kunafa spot too, so you can’t do one without the other. I’ll put it in my full list with some other less known new amazing spots!
hot take: FAKHRELDIN
Everyone goes on and on about Lebanese institution Em Sharif being the best Levantine restaurant in the world. HOT TAKE: it is not. Fakhreldine is better *shrugs*.
If you want bougie then come here. The experience, the food and the hospitality are perfect. Its romantic. Grand. Its like you’re in a retro movie. The charming waiters with their tailored suits and fez hats. Soft music. The beautiful oasis garden. The rumblings of shisha. The food is traditional levantine but done to perfection. Even the iconic kibbeh nayyeh is better then Em Sharif in my opinion. This may upset people to hear.
a special coffee: RUMMAN
It is so stunning and Karim Azar one of the young muskateers is spearheading the menu here too so the food is incredible also. Karim and his peers are finding old heritage houses in Amman and turning them into incredible food concepts. Its wonderful.
If you come on a nice day, get a table on the balcony that overlooks the city. It feels like you own the villa and enjoy the morning on the veranda sipping your coffee.
FULL AMMAN LIST BELOW:
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