city guide: CAIRO

Doing the the hard work for you

Here’s some selects FREE for everyone, but I’ll put the FULL Google maps list link at the bottom of this newsletter for my paid subscribers, click it! It’ll take you to over a FULL list of recommendations!

People go to Cairo for the wrong reasons. Usually to chase some fantasy of pharaohs and pyramids. Recently, I heard an acquaintance rave about her magical trip doing yoga at the base of the Great Pyramid of Giza. How her chakras opened through some cosmic alignment. Her moon was rising—but so was my temper. If I ever meet Mercury, I’m headbutting him in the nose.

My take? The pyramids are lifeless bricks. Cairo’s real magic lives in its people.

Egyptians are the most electric, dynamic people on the planet. They can be infuriating, chaotic, and messy—but they’re also charming, deeply passionate, and genuinely the funniest people alive.

That paradox matters. In a world becoming increasingly robotic, inhumane, and artificially intelligent, our imperfect humanity is being slowly stripped away.

I love Cairo because it throws that humanity right back at me. We talk about “soul”—Cairo teems with it. Its noise, its unpredictability, its constant friction force me to dip into the full well of being human: patience, compassion, joy, anger, surrender. Every street corner demands a different emotion.

Some people find this city draining. I find it nourishing. Cairo is truly singular—an ancient capital of culture, spirituality, and history. So I accept all her idiosyncrasies, because what she gives me in return is so much more. She makes me feel human again.

Cairo is structurally complicated. The old city and downtown areas sit in the centre - very busy and chaotic but lots of soul and vibrancy. Zamalek the tiny oasis island in the middle is a pocket of peace. Very affluent. The periphery of Cairo is where wealthier families live in newer development enclaves. And many more. So depending on the Cairo you wanna see, choose wisely.

I’ll dive deeper into these reflections another time. For now—let’s get to the good stuff: my latest round of FRESH New York recommendations (with a heavy Brooklyn bias, because… well, Brooklyn is Brooklyn).

Below is some of my favourite selects for you.

But there’s so much more! For the FULL and BEST recommendations consider subscribing to the paid feature! You’ll unlock a host of perks and even more guides to cities across the world! It also kindly supports me!

theatre: HAWASHI RABIA’

Good old electric Egyptian theatre! The pinnacle of performance art in Cairo is watching a skilled server pour molokhiyyah from one pot into another into another and into your bowl with complete precision. An Egyptian assembly line of butter and anxiety. They make jokes, sing and serve you home comforts.

Hawashi Rabia’ specialises in Hawashi’ a stuffed meat pastry but they excel in all traditional Egyptian foods. I think its better than other places than replace flavour with butter. The butcher is opposite - so it gets cut and grilled and straight to your plate. This is where you bring a group of friends. The energy is unforgettable, wholesome and most importantly delicious.

x factor: KHUFU

Truly spectacular experience. Chef Moustafa Seif is one of the undisputed best chefs in the region and he has a space in the pyramid complex so you can eat a magical meal with a prime view of pyramids as a backdrop.

But the food inspired by Egyptian heritage produce is so delicious you may not have a moment to life your head to take it all in.

This place just has everything, one of my favourite meals of the year. Moustafa is the loveliest human too. You have to visit, but book in advance because it gets booked out.

where to stay: VILLA

There is a Cairo I adore. Charming and attentive waiters in prestine crease-free tuxedos, antique interiors, paisley wallpaper, and Um Kulthum playing from a distant vinyl. You can’t get this anywhere else in the world. Its a byproduct of layers of civilisation imprinting their hue of culture and hospitality into this wonderful unique experience. It oozes with soul and personality. Villa Belle Epoque is a converted villa that immerses you in this Cairo romance. But not a kitsch bastardised way. In a way that feels like you’re an accidental character in a classic Egyptian film from the 70s. I loved my stay here, and probably heading straight back.

classic: ANDREA

An iconic institution perched high on a hill romantically overlooking the city. Tied together by the owner Omar who is this magnetic, charming but also polarising personality. A local legend. Some love him, some don’t. He’s opinionated, proud and nonchalant. He has kicked out Amir Diab just “because”, and if he doesn’t like you you’ll know it.

But when you’re undeniably one of the best food establishments in the city you can dictate the terms. Come for their specialties hamaam (stuffed pigeon), grilled quail and if Omar takes a liking to you he’ll share one of his amazing stories with you. One of my highlights was Omar taking a liking to me, telling me stories and taking me to his private space next door. I felt so happy! haha.

inventive: ALMERIA

Cutest spot in downtown at the center of this new wave of businesses reimagining Downtown heritage. BeautifullY decorated and with fun inventive and delicious takes on Egyptian and regional food. A great place to come and chill during the day or even take a date at night :). The staff are mostly refugees and there is a huge emphasis on ethics throughout.

community: NADI ZAMALEK

Cairo has a unique social hierarchy. Shaped ultimately by centuries of civilisations redefining social status and structure. These influences compounded together, and very much still play out today. One colonial legacy is the sporting clubs that exist in the city. Previously colonial members club for the British elite to socialise amongst themselves. As colonial influence declined these same places weren’t dismantled, they were instead coopted by the local elite that replicated that same exclusivity. Think Arab 20th century soho house.

The two biggest clubs in Cairo are Gezira and Heliopolis Sporting Clubs. Membership is inherited amongst certain elite families. You can buy in - but at an extortionate amount which guarantees you and your decedents place in the community.

Gezira is in Zamalek and foreigners are now able to buy day passes to use the facilities which include - gyms, pool, restaurants, cafes, massages and more.

But you really go just to people watch. Generations of families have sat its famous cafe greeting people, small talk and ultimately gossip like infamous “Gezira Girls” do. Whatever your opinions of it may be, I find it fascinating to witness.

However today, this sporting club legacy in Cairo is under threat of rampant capitalist development. Gulf investment has resulted in compounds being built in the outskirts which are destroying this hierarchy. Now instead of communal community spaces families are now not leaving their apartment compounds disrupting how Cairo’s families socialise, organise and even fall in love.

Yes Sporting Clubs are elitist and exclusive, but at least they centered community. Which is now also being taken away.

unique: Mawlid Sayidda Zainab

If you really wanna experience something unique, go to Cairo during Sayidda Zainab’s mawlid usually in January. The chaos of the city moves in unison as people join together in dhikr (remembrance), prayer and song. The streets are alive with a joyful festivity where some of the most wonderful rituals of Cairo spirituality come into its fullest form.

FULL CAIRO LIST BELOW:

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